May 1, 2008
Hola amigos!!! Well I made it. I’m here in Mexico. The fiesta went really well. We had about 30 people come and made $380 thanks to the gracious donation of all the food by my parents. It was a really fun time and the food was awesome!!! Thanks Alexis, Lindsay, Antony, Mum, Hannah, Robert and Kenyan for helping cook and get the house ready. I also want to thank Patti Soltys and Jeff Wilkinson for their donations and everyone who came to the fiesta.
My flight to Mexico was long and tiring. I left Saskatoon at 1:30pm and flew through Calgary and LA before arriving in Guadalajara at 4:30am Saskatoon time which was 5:30am Guadalajara time. I had lots of long layovers. A young guy from Projects Abroad named Jonatan met me at the airport here and took me to the office. I was totally sketched out because it was still completely dark out and to get to the office you have to drive down all these dodgy back streets… well to be fair they are only dodgy in the dark. At any rate, the office has no sign or anything outside and has a rusty old gate of a front door. Anyway… I was certain I was about to be sold into some underground prostitution ring. But we went inside, turned on the lights and it was an actual office with signs and posters and stuff. I got to wash up and have a much needed nap until 10:30am when Jonatan and Gorge (a guy training to work for Projects Abroad) took me on a tour of the city. The office is right next to a beautiful cathedral called the Catedral Expiatorio. We looked at that and then went for breakfast at this awesome, old, traditional restaurant filled with old men and a mariachi was playing for us… it was sooo cool. We ate the traditional breakfast of chilaquiles (baked tortilla pieces in salsa topped with cheese). So delicious! Then we went and saw a bunch more cool places: the main cathedral in Guadalajara (bigger but not as pretty as he Expiatorio), some beautiful parks, some government buildings with amazing murals inside depicting the history of Mexico, the biggest indoor market in the Western Hemisphere, and the oldest bar in Guadalajara for my first Mexican cerveza. This bar never used to have bathrooms because women weren’t allowed in bars until the 70s or something like that. Instead of a bathroom it had a trough in the floor along the bar so all you had to do was unzip and let ‘er go… no need to even leave the bar!
It is so bloody hot in this country I don’t even know what to do with myself. Apparently May is the hottest month of the year and this is the hottest summer Guadalajara has seen in over 100 years. It get to over 40 degrees midday! I was not prepared for this. I was wearing jeans and two t-shirts for my tour yesterday. I was dying by the end. I have had a perpetual headache since I got to this city from the heat… and I have never drunk so much water in my life…. And the smog in this city of 6 million people doesn’t help.
I was supposed to go to Ciudad Guzman last night but the guys who runs everything there is on holidays until Monday (it was National Children’s Day Yesterday and Labour Day today). Anyway, this means that I’m stuck in Guadalajara with nothing to do until Monday which suits me just fine. I’m staying with a host family here and two other volunteers. The house is packed with people. There are three generations of the family and an assortment of other random lodgers here… I honestly have no idea who they all are. So far I have gathered that my host mum is the head of the house and her daughter and daughter’s husband live here too with their young daughter Valeria. There is also a cousin or something and today I found a bunch of stuff on the bed next to mine that is not my stuff so I’m assuming someone else is moving in too. Oddly I never actually see anyone besides the volunteers and my host mum around the house.
Today I went to the market with a few of the volunteers and got well acquainted with the male population of the city. The constant harassment women face in this country is ridiculous. I could not even count how many times we were beeped at, whistled at, boldly stared at (one guy walked right up to me and just looked me up and down for what felt like an eternity with his mouth hanging open… so disgusting) hollered at, and generally harassed… someone even took photos of us - as if we wouldn’t notice. It’s really quite humorous… they never try to grab you or anything so it’s all quite harmless, just rather annoying. I’ve learned to tell people I only speak French… that way even the ones that know a little English can’t talk to me… it’s really quite brilliant!
Wow, so this post is getting really long. I’m typing it on my laptop in my room right now and will take it on my USB drive to the internet café sometime soon. I don’t have internet in my house but there is a cheap café that only charges 5 pesos per hour (that’s 50 cents Canadian). I still can’t get over how cheap things are here. A bottle of beer at the bar cost 15 pesos! For those mathematically challenged that’s 1.50 Canadian!!! Well, I’m going to have a nap now. It’s salsa night tonight!
5 de Mayo
So today is cinco de mayo which is Mexican independence day. It’s a huge deal in the states with all the maxicans who live there but apparently in Mexico it’s not really a big deal at all. The kids don’t go to school today but that is all I have seen so far that would tell me this is anything other than a normal day.
Anyway, salsa night was really fun. I met a bunch of the other volunteers including my roommate in Ciudad Guzman, Gemma. She is so cool. She’s in med school in England and is here volunteering at the hospital. She was going to Puerto Vallarta for the weekend and asked me if I wanted to come. I figured I didn’t really have much else to do and was getting a bit overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of Guadalajara. So we left the next morning on the bus (first class and it only cost $32). The drive was awesome! It took like 5 ½ hours but its was all through the mountains and there was the most beautiful scenery. We got to Vallarta and eventually found a cheap hotel (500 pesos/night) with a pool, beautiful courtyard, satellite tv and a private bathroom! It was sooo luxurious. We met up with Jous the guy who runs the projects in Guzman and walked around town, visited a few cool bars and then discovered that you can buy 1litre cups of beer to go from some bar for like 40 pesos!!! You can walk around town with booze in Mexico. I’ve discovered there isn’t much for rules of any kind in Mexico.
The next day Gemma and I went down to the beach and worked on our tans all day… being the stupid tourist that I am, I got horribly sunburnt. I’m still in pain like 2 days later. That evening we walked all up and down the beach and watched the sunset. By that time I was in great pain so we walked all the way back to the hotel and went to bed.
The next day (Sunday) we had to bus it to Guzman. We caught the bus at 10:30 in the morning and barely moved for the first hour or so the traffic was so bad. It took almost 7 hours to get back to Guadalajara! The bus to Guzman from there was only about an hour so we got into Guzman ant about 7 pm. I love Ciudad Guzman! It is a little city with about 150 000 people. I think Gemma, Alex (the other volunteer here) and I are the only white people in the whole city. Little kids who have never seen white people in real life before come up to us and stare or point and say ‘Güera’ which means blonde. They call white people güera whether or not we have blonde hair. But the men here don’t harass us like they did in Guadalajara. They might stare but I’ve only been whistled at once in two days. It is so refreshing.
My host family is awesome! My host Mum is called Sara and her daughter is called Fernanda. They are both sooo nice. They don’t speak English which is good for me because it forces me to practice my Spanish. Last night Gemma showed me around town a bit and made me order ice cream myself. So far she had been doing most of the talking for me. It’s funny how useless the Spanish is that I know. I could have a discussion about the politics of Costa Rica but I can’t even order ice cream. It’s quite ridiculous.
Today Fernanda took me to the Pharmacy to try and buy some things. It was so entertaining trying to explain to the clerks what I needed to buy. Thank God Fernanda was with me so I could sort of get the gist across to her and then she could explain to the clerks in proper Spanish. It was a really good time. I have faith in my Spanish getting lots better in time for school in July.
I went to my placement today at the rehab centre with Jous. I am so excited to start there tomorrow. There is the sweetest little boy there named Cristian who is about 7 years old. He immediately ran up to Jous and me and grabbed on to us and told us that we were going to adopt him and we were his new mum and dad. It was so sweet. He has a ridiculous amount of energy and was running all over the place showing us around and introducing us to people. The rest of the boys were a little shyer than Cristian. They came up to me with curiosity and said hello but not much more. They all come from really rough places… little Cristian even has tattoos. The whole place looks a bit like a jail with high walls, curling barbed wire and guards here and there but they seem to be doing really good work there. I can’t wait to go back tomorrow and be a part of it.